The Cracker Barrel mess exposes the cynicism of the rightwing culture war | Sidney Blumenthal

by Marcelo Moreira

First they came for the Smithsonian. Then they came for Cracker Barrel.

Whether it’s the museums or the corporations – or the universities, law firms, federal departments and agencies – the attack lines of the Trump culture war and its culture warriors are the same. The vicious full-scale assault on the Cracker Barrel restaurant chain after the company naively wandered on to the battle zone by altering its “Old Timer” logo exposes the cynicism of the whole operation and its ulterior motive to impose an authoritarian regime over every aspect of American society.

On 19 August, Donald Trump launched his purge campaign against the Smithsonian with a post denouncing it as “the last remaining segment of ‘WOKE’ …where everything discussed is how horrible our Country is, how bad Slavery was, and how unaccomplished the downtrodden have been.”

Within 24 hours, the son echoed the father, but with a different target in the crosshairs. The day after Trump denounced the Smithsonian, Donald Trump Jr took umbrage at Cracker Barrel, joining a rightwing social media mob.

Cracker Barrel’s sales had gone flat partly due to its creaky image, symbolized by a logo featuring a geezer in overalls seated cross-legged and leaning on a barrel, promoted as the “Uncle Herschel” of the store’s founder. At the company headquarters in Lebanon, Tennessee, the “Uncle Herschel Memorial” features statues of “Uncle Herschel” seated on a bench listening to a Cracker Barrel waitress. Marketing research, however, showed that the rickety ambience was off-putting to a younger suburban clientele. So “Uncle Herschel” was retired, the logo cleaned up with just the brand name front and center, the interiors with dark brown log cabin walls whitewashed and more brightly lit.

But this marketing facelift, a common corporate design “refinement”, as it is known, was a new frontier beyond “the last remaining segment of ‘WOKE’”. Don Jr retweeted a post by an account called the Woke War Room attacking Julie Felss Masino, the Cracker Barrel CEO: “She scrapped a beloved American aesthetic and replaced it with sterile, soulless branding. She should resign and be replaced with leadership that will restore Cracker Barrel’s tradition.”

If Don Jr had ever eaten at a Cracker Barrel, he would have had to leave the confines of Manhattan and Palm Beach. There is not a single Cracker Barrel to be found in any borough of New York City, or on Long Island either. His personal experience with “tradition” is not located in the biscuit mix section of the country store. If Don Jr’s complaint is with “soulless branding”, it does not extend to the sale of the $DJTJR (Donald J Trump Jr) crypto memecoin. But this bit of brazen hypocrisy is lost in the ocean of the Trump family’s grifting.

When the right launched its version of Mao’s Cultural Revolution, now with the power of the Trump administration behind it, nobody predicted that Cracker Barrel would become collateral damage. The Tennessee-based chain, founded in 1969, trafficked in faux rustic pre-second world war nostalgia, an image from before the existence of supermarkets, shopping malls and the interstate highways where most of the restaurants are located. Cracker Barrel was a little theme park. Customers entered through a retail outlet that resembled a country store. On the restaurant’s walls hung old advertising signs, farm implements and framed antique photos of 19th-century folk with a grim American Gothic look. The menu consisted of “homestyle food”, including “the best classic meatloaf” with mashed potatoes and gravy.

But in the 1990s and early 2000s the business suffered protests after the firing of employees suspected of being gay and reached an agreement with the justice department to change its management practices after allegedly segregating Black diners. The clientele that favored the kitsch decor also dwindled. In response, the company shed its old prejudiced practices and recently unveiled its makeover to update its tired image. That provided the pretext for the calculated Maga explosion.

Hillsdale College, a rightwing citadel in eastern Michigan that has been vehement in ramping up the culture wars, posted on X the plain Cracker Barrel logo on one side of a frame with a statue of George Washington splattered with red paint on the other under the line: “Same energy.” The Hillsdale account added: “Cracker Barrel is a beloved cultural icon, tied to the lifestyle and memories of truth-seeking Americans.”

According to this college, a center of conservative thought, the restaurant chain is apparently the cultural equivalent of the Smithsonian, or should be exhibited there, and its customers who have pulled in for the chicken fried steak are “truth-seeking Americans”, presumably as opposed to those who stop for the chicken wings at Chili’s. The culture war doesn’t stop at the logo’s edge.

The Woke War Room that aroused Don Jr used the attack line that Cracker Barrel perpetrates a “DEI regime”. The CEO’s picture was placed next to the rainbow logo of the LGBTQ+ Alliance. The post also noted that America First Legal, a far-right group founded by Stephen Miller, Trump’s deputy involved in Ice raids, the culture war against universities and apparently much else, had filed complaints with the Equal Opportunities Employment Commission and the Tennessee attorney general alleging racial discrimination by Cracker Barrel because of its DEI policy. The Maga mob piled in with misogynistic tweets against the female CEO.

A Maga social media influencer, Robby Starbuck, advancing himself within the rightwing constellation as an anti-DEI activist, threatened: “Oh my goodness. When you see what we’ve got on Cracker Barrel … Wow. I don’t think anyone knew it was as bad as the stuff we received. We’re talking total capture by leftism at the exec level. We have photos, videos, etc. Should I put it all in 1 video or release 1 by 1?”

In 2022, Starbuck, whose given name is Robert Newsom, was excluded from running in the Republican primary for the Tennessee fifth congressional district by the Tennessee Republican party, which found that he was not “a bona fide Republican”. His exclusion was upheld by the Tennessee supreme court.

On 23 August, Fox News featured his video denouncing Cracker Barrel for its involvement in gay pride events – “a microcosm of the parasitic operating procedure of leftwing activists” with a “soulless, godless, hedonistic vision of the future”. This month, he began advising Meta “on efforts to curb what they describe as political bias in its AI tools”, according to the Wall Street Journal. His advisory role comes amid a defamation settlement after a Meta AI chatbot inaccurately said he had been involved in the January 6 insurrection at the US Capitol. He has only been part of social media mobs.

Stoking the ferocity of the onslaught against Cracker Barrel, Starbuck spoke with Christopher Rufo, who has positioned himself among the chief culture war activists on the right. He had been the key adviser to the Florida governor, Ron DeSantis, in his crusades to ban books, attack the Walt Disney Company as “woke” and assail universities.

Rufo is a certain kind of zealot who has achieved his greatest influence under Trump, like Miller and Project 2025’s Russell Vought, now the head of the office of management and budget, self-styled ideological commissars with a Bolshevik mentality.

In a speech in 2022 at Hillsdale College, which Rufo titled Laying Siege to the Institutions, he boasted of his “very aggressive” campaign against Disney. “You have to be ruthless and brutal in pursuit of something good,” he said, in a Leninist spirit, describing a “narrative war” with American corporations and institutions. “We get in there, we defund things we don’t like, we fund things we do like.”

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The following year, Rufo spent six weeks in Hungary as a fellow at the Danube Institute, a thinktank closely aligned with the country’s authoritarian leader, Viktor Orbán. “My deepest interest,” Rufo wrote, “was to understand how Hungary … is attempting to rebuild its culture and institutions, from schools to universities to media … Hungary’s leaders are serious people combatting the same forces confronted by conservatives in the West.” One lesson Rufo drew from Orbán’s “culture-war strategy” was that there would be, “for the foreseeable future, a large state that has power over family, education, and culture, and conservative political leaders are abdicating their responsibility if they do not employ it to advance conservative aims”.

When Trump won the 2024 election, Rufo contributed his battle plan alongside the Heritage Foundation’s Project 2025. “In the transition period, I laid out a counterrevolution blueprint that outlined my strategy for how the president and the administration could take decisive action in the war against these left-wing ideologies.”

He crowed about the accusation of reverse discrimination against virtually every institution public and private – ”anti-white bigotry should face just as severe a sanction as anti-Black bigotry” – and said he sought “to figure out how to adjust the formula of finances from the federal government to the universities in a way that puts them in an existential terror and have them say, Unless we change what we’re doing, we’re not going to be able to meet our budget for the year.

But until Rufo talked to Starbuck about the villainy of Cracker Barrel, he said, he had not paid attention. “At first, I dismissed the story as trivial. I have never set foot in a Cracker Barrel and, as such, have little stake in what is emblazoned above its doorways,” Rufo wrote in City Journal, the magazine of the Manhattan Institute, a conservative thinktank where he is a senior fellow. “The logo change might have caught the public’s initial attention, but the underlying political story had real stakes. If companies that depend on conservatives adopt radical left-wing policies, they must face the consequences.”

Rufo decided that Cracker Barrel was a worthy target for the overarching culture war. “Some might dismiss the Cracker Barrel campaign as minor, or even embarrassing … But there is enormous value in making an example of the company and cementing a fear that conservatives can spontaneously lash out at any institution that crosses the line. Today, it’s Cracker Barrel; tomorrow it might be Pepsi, Target, or Procter & Gamble.”

Cracker Barrel’s “Old Timer” logo had to be manufactured into a cause célèbre for a larger purpose. “Even if we don’t care about Cracker Barrel in particular,” Rufo wrote, “we should all care about the ideological capture of American institutions and use whatever power we have to reverse it. And for that to occur, the Barrel must be broken.”

With that call to arms, Rufo gives the game away. He doesn’t really take the conspiratorial fiction seriously. It is useful only as an instrument for bludgeoning those designated as objective enemies in order to build toward absolute power. In the gradation of his hierarchy of conservative principles, the highest value is cynicism. Rufo’s rhetoric has the characteristic tone of Stalin’s statement on 29 July 1936 declaring his Great Purge: “The inalienable quality of every Bolshevik under present conditions should be the ability to recognize an enemy of the Party no matter how well he may be masked.”

On 26 August, Trump entered the fray, saying that Cracker Barrel should “admit a mistake … Make Cracker Barrel a WINNER again. Remember, in just a short period of time I made the United States of America the ‘HOTTEST’ Country anywhere in the World. One year ago, it was ‘DEAD.’ Good luck!”

That evening, Cracker Barrel executives reportedly called the Trump White House to offer unconditional surrender. “They thanked President Trump for weighing in on the issue of their iconic ‘original’ logo,” Taylor Budowich, the cabinet secretary, posted. “They wanted the President to know that they heard him … and would be restoring the ‘Old Timer.’ So smart! Congrats Cracker Barrel and America!” The White House issued an official statement announcing the restoration as if it were a decisive presidential action: “Congratulations Cracker Barrel!” Nobel prize!

“Uncle Herschel” was back, the “woke” conspiracy again defeated, another victory in the culture war. Today Cracker Barrel. Tomorrow the Federal Reserve.

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